Wednesday, February 28, 2007

She leads a lonely life--Wednesday, February 28

It’s a little startling to realize I’ll be back in school in exactly 36 hours after having such a long break. To be honest, I am not really looking forward to it. Sure, it will be nice to see my kids again, but then there’s the whole teaching thing. How did I teach for four months already? I don’t know how to teach! Who was I fooling??? Here’s hoping it’ll come back to me…

Today was not terribly exciting. I did the usual reading and writing and took a long walk in the afternoon. It was really nice outside today—I was in a T-shirt and shorts and I was warm enough. That sometimes doesn’t happen even in California’s winter! I also ate maybe a pound of mushrooms today and they were all delicious. I love my host mother’s cooking so much. She’s so good to me. My mushroom fetish has become somewhat of a joke around home and school and people are always making or ordering them for me. I’m not complaining. Sometimes I wonder what the family eats when I’m not around, though. I hope it’s not too different—I’d hate to be the one forcing them to eat things they didn’t like.

Otherwise…no grand advancements in philosophical thought today. I was just feeling a little melancholy and missing home a bit, if only because then I could talk to my family rather than attempt to eavesdrop in vain. I think I caught my host sisters calling Eun Ho a mushroom head today at lunch, which is sadly true. I’m pretty sure he hasn’t had a haircut since September or October and he’s looking rather feminine lately.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Drowning in the sea of love--Tuesday, February 27

I’ve decided to spice things up by titling my journal entries with random song lyrics that may or may not apply to the rest of the entry but are at least more interesting than any titles I come up with on my own. I’m also thinking of inserting a “Quote of the day” section. We’re getting daring (or bored?) here in Hongsan!

Today’s selection is from a book I bought yesterday in Seoul called The Historian. It’s—predictably—a historical thriller, perhaps along the lines of The Da Vinci Code, about vampires. It’s pretty interesting so far. This is what the author has to say about travel:

“As an adult, I have often known that peculiar legacy time brings to the traveler: the longing to seek out a place a second time, to find deliberately what we stumbled on once before, to recapture the feeling of discovery. Sometimes we search out again even a place that was not remarkable in itself—we look for it simply because we remember it. If we do find it, of course, everything is different. The rough-hewn door is still there, but it’s much smaller; the day is cloudy instead of brilliant; it’s spring instead of autumn; we’re alone instead of with three friends. Or, worse, with three friends instead of alone.” (p. 93)

I am usually hesitant to explore completely new places on my own because I get a little overwhelmed with all the newness, but once I am a bit familiar with a place, there’s nothing I like better than seeking out the new within the comforts of the old. This is particularly true recently with my travels to Seoul. I have been there so many times now, but I always find something new and exciting each time. Last time, I would have to say the jewel was the tofu restaurant, and the time before, the artsy cinema. I feel like an explorer, finding these little gems off the beaten path.

I forgot that I had been instructed last weekend to modify an entry made back in December. My friend Janaki informed me that she wasn’t shocked by Hongsan; she was merely glad I was the one there, and not any of the other Fulbrighters who most likely would have ended their lives by now. Does that make me adaptable and optimistic, or just delusional, to be happy in such a place?

Today I accomplished many things.
1. I completed my new morning workout routine of TKD kicks and stretching for the first time since before I left on my trip in January. It took immense willpower to not continue reading all morning, but I did it! But then I was late for breakfast and my host mom made the kids wait for me…oops.
2. I read some more Korean history. If I keep up this pace, I can be done with it in three weeks, which is pretty good considering it took me five months to get halfway through. I went crazy over Christmas and read it every day.
3. I talked to my friend Caitie, who I hadn’t spoke to since the beginning of October. We’re always making plans to talk, but they always fall through. It was good to hear a familiar voice and realize I haven’t lost touch with ALL of my fellow graduates.
On the negative side, I missed an im from my baby sis and she signed off before I could reply. I am a bit distraught over this—what if it was important?!?
4. I wrote some emails to friends and I only have two more to reply back to from my trip. Excellent! I hate having emails in my inbox, staring me in the face, making me feel guilty for not replying. I always mean to be a better communicator and start writing back right away, but this resolution has never stuck and with internet access limited on my trip, it just didn’t work out.
5. I went on a run this afternoon for the first time since November, I believe. I was really slow, but I feel nice and sore now and I’m really glad I did that. I want to start running every day again to ward off the advances my host mom’s cooking makes on my waistline. I refuse to get fat from rice, of all things.
6. I studied my Korean for a bit today. Granted, it wasn’t much and I only reviewed a bit I supposedly learned before, but it’s more than I’ve done in months and I intend to pick this up again. It’s pretty pathetic that I’ve been here for almost eight months now and I still know so little Korean. I was gone the last two months, but still…I owe it to my family, my fellow teachers, and myself to become more fluent...or fluent at all.

I’m happy I got so much done today and still managed to relax and enjoy the tail end of my vacation. Too bad I am planning to do all the same things, every day, in addition to full-time teaching once school starts. I am so crazy sometimes.

Monday, February 26, 2007

Seoul Ski Weekend--Monday, February 26

I am back in Hongsan. My constant fatigue was certainly not relieved this weekend, but my nagging sense of bleh certainly was! It was a reunion weekend of sorts in Seoul, for everyone seemed to be there, celebrating the last weekend of freedom before the new school year starts on Friday. It was a little strange to be surrounded by so many people at first, accustomed as I am to being alone or with Bianca, but it was really nice to see so many of my friends after such a long hiatus. I was surprised with how many people seemed discontented with Korea, however, and were dreading going back to their homestays and jobs. Is there something wrong with me, or them? I love being at home and I think my job is fantastic, but I seem to be the only one! Well, that’s not completely true. I did talk to a few people who are thinking about extending, too, but we are certainly in the minority. Being exposed to such negativity about Korea was a bit of a downer, especially considering how happy I was to return to it, but I suppose we are all in such different situations and seeing such different aspects of Korea life and culture that it’s to be expected. It just emphasizes once more how lucky I was to end up where I did.

I arrived in Seoul midafternoon on Saturday—a later start than usual because I did some writing Saturday morning, but my friends were still asleep when I called! Guess I missed out on some good times Friday night, but it’s just as well. I don’t need to feel any more tired and out of it than I already do. We really didn’t do anything on Saturday except hang out, eat, and then go to the hookah bar later, along with what seemed like the entire Fulbright crew. There must have been at least 20-25 of us there! I stayed over at my friend Jon’s apartment along with four others. It was a little cramped, but it was nice to not stay in a sleazy hotel or smelly hostel for once. I was so happy to just be sleeping horizontally instead of in the bus slouch!

On Sunday, I went skiing with Jon, Jonah, Rachel, Traci, Ryan, Dana, Kiehl, George, and Emerald. It was a bit of an eclectic group of varying skiing skills, but the hill itself did not provide that many options so we ended up spending most of the day together (except for Jon, who was snowboarding on the bunny hill). I have never been to a ski resort like this in my life and this is not a good thing. There was absolutely no snow to be seen except on the runs themselves—all five of them. Seriously. It was brown, except in these few areas. I’ve never skied in such an artificial environment before and I can’t say I really enjoyed it. It was pretty warm, so the manmade snow was super soft and slushy and I struggled in it, since I am used to powder and ice conditions. The ski equipment was also a joke. My skis were maybe up to my chest and the bindings were set so loosely that I am surprised the skis never came off. George’s did, constantly—at one point, his ski flew ALL the way down the hill, only to be caught by Kiehl! It was fun to spend the time with my friends and to experience Korean skiing for myself, but I don’t know if I’d repeat the experience. According to Dana and Ryan, the hill they went to earlier this year was much better, but I have my doubts. Call me a ski snob, but I might have to hold out for good ol’ Bridger.

Last night I spent with Dana, Janaki, and Alexis at Dana’s current Seoul residence. He was actually staying at the house I visited last October when I went to the Halloween party, which was eerie. I didn’t even realize I was in the same neighborhood! The four of us tried to watch a movie, but Dana’s computer was having none of that so we resorted to storytelling. I asked Dana to tell a story as a sort of joke, but he started right up and then we went around in a circle, sharing mostly childhood stories of pets and family. It was really fun to hear more about some of my friends’ experiences growing up, but I did get a little nervous whenever it was my turn because my life seemed so boring in comparison! I mean, I never adopted four possum babies, one of whom nested in my hair (Dana), or accidentally killed a series of pets in imaginative ways (Janaki) or had a creepy high school stalker (Alexis). Guess I’ll have to work on making my life more interesting!

Today I walked to a river park near Dana’s house in Hapjeong but it wasn’t as interesting as I expected, unfortunately. My lucky streak with museums is wearing thin, I am afraid. I also went to a used bookstore and bought more to add to my collection of unread books. I am worried I have a book obsession—I am constantly buying! And this is in addition to the books I already intend to buy online! I actually ran out of money to get home and had to make an emergency bank stop after my extravagant literary purchases. And then I skipped my planned hike and came home. I wanted to come back before eight, for once, in case my family was getting irritated with the late hours. No one was even home, but I like to think they appreciated my efforts. I had a very nice weekend away, but I am looking forward to shaking my cold and continuing to get my life in order before school starts oh-so-very-soon this week. I am definitely not even mentally prepared yet!

Friday, February 23, 2007

Farewell Party--Friday, February 23

I just returned from a dinner party in Buyeo with the teachers at my school. It was supposed to be a farewell to the teachers leaving us—my co-teacher, one of the kindergarten teachers, the gym teacher, and one of the fifth grade teachers. We went to a restaurant I’d never been to before and had—big surprise here—a small ocean of seafood. Good thing everyone looks out for me so well, or there literally would have been nothing for me to eat! I had some roasted corn, eggs, lettuce drenched in mayo, and fried sweet potatoes. I actually like eating these side dishes. I always get more than enough food, with everyone ordering extra for me and giving me all the veggies from each of the tables. Plus, they are usually very delish. Tonight was okay—I was maybe a little bored (and Eun Soon called me out on it)—but it was nice to see everyone. They were all visibly glad to see me, and being a vain person, that pleased me (and their compliments didn’t hurt, too). It’s just too bad so many are leaving. And I never even got a chance to talk to my co-teacher because he left me about three minutes into the dinner. The next thing I knew, he was sitting for a long time with his head in his hands, and then he disappeared halfway through dinner. I found out later from the fifth grade teacher that “he is too much drink” and had gone to his car to sleep. I’d never seen the guy drunk—how crazy! And I had a present to give him and everything. Guess we’ll have to meet up some other time. My new co-teacher (whose name I forget at the moment) is a second-grade teacher and lived in Canada for three years. She’s pretty great and I think it will work out well. It was always my dream to have a female co-teacher, anyway. She was already pressuring me to stay another year…they’re relentless!

Tomorrow I am going to Seoul again. I’m meeting some friends there and then going skiing at a place near Seoul on Sunday. It should be a good time, though I have serious doubts about the “snow.” As in, I don’t see how there could be any at all, and if there is, I’m sure it’s absolute crap. But it’s cool, ‘cause I’ll ski circles ‘round the fools, anyway. This MT upbringing’s gotta be good for SOMETHING.

Thursday, February 22, 2007

Recuperation--Thursday, Februrary 22

Today I am a stuffed rice dumpling. I have eaten so much today…is it Thanksgiving and I missed it? What’s with all the food? It is strange to be back home, where I eat even when I am not hungry because host mom knocks herself out fixing my meals. There goes my slender waistline (again).

I have been spending a lot of time at home, hiding under the cloak of “recovery” and “jet lag.” I really did feel ill my first day back—I swear I had a fever—and I still don’t feel completely well, but I suppose it’s more psychological than physical and it’s something I’ll have to get over quickly. I sure can’t keep sleeping in and lazing about with school starting so soon!

I had to drop in to school yesterday morning because my co-teacher called and told me the principal wanted to meet with me. I expected a formal meeting of some sort, but we just interrupted his meeting with new teachers and he held my hand for some awkward length of time and said some sentence in English that I forget now. It really was a momentous occasion, for he’s never spoken English to me before. I wonder if he was practicing. I found out he is staying at Hongsan after all, which is a relief because now I know there won’t be any major surprises in what the school expects me to accomplish. I had daymares of new principals wanting me to cover the book exactly, or taking more of an active role in my classroom, and I was dreading it. Principals really have a lot of say over what goes on in Korean schools and I am relieved the boat won’t be rocked here for the time being. Plus, I like the guy, even though we can’t really communicate. He makes me nervous just because of his role, but he really is very nice and concerned with my welfare. According to an email my co-teacher sent me, the principal was constantly asking him about my whereabouts and health (“Where is Jennifer?”) and my co-teacher would reply that he didn’t know (“I don’t know…maybe in Eastern South Asia!”). What a funny guy. I guess some people have problems with the principal (I suspect my co-teacher is among them), but luckily I am not involved in office politics so I am free to like whom I wish.

I spent some time rearranging the supplies in my room, but I got bored and went home around lunch. I will probably have the first week of school to prepare for the semester as the other teachers figure out the English class schedule, so I’m not too worried. No need to start work already.

I gave Eun Ho, Ye Eun, and my host mother their gifts yesterday. I think they liked them all right. Eun Ho got a flute I picked up in Cambodia and immediately said “Cobra” when I took it out. I guess he was thinking of the snake charmers, because later my host mother played a little and he did a crazy snake dance. It was hysterical. The kid is a born comedian. My host mother could barely keep playing. The kids were also enthralled with the silk scarf I gave my host mother and spent a lot of time pretending to be birds with it. I am always amazed at the way they entertain themselves.

We looked through some of my pictures yesterday afternoon, and though I think they were bored by some of them, most of them kept their attention. Eun Ho was in charge of flipping through them. I was actually somewhat disappointed with the way they turned out—they are a poor, poor shadow of what we experienced, due either to the shortcomings of the camera, the photographer, or photography itself—but I imagine they were pretty incredible in their eyes. I don’t know how much they’ve even seen of Korea and I know they haven’t been abroad. The farming life makes it hard to travel for more than a day.

I got to talk with my mom, dad, sister, and brother today and I am really excited about that. I’d missed them all more than I thought I would during my journey and it was nice to finally hear their voices. Or hear from them at all. Perhaps I am feeling a bit homesick, but I’m sure it will pass once I am busy again and into the school routine. It’s funny how the day-to-day settles over everything and makes you forget how rapidly time is passing.

For now, I am avoiding the big questions and am merely engaged in a battle against lethargy. Do I go on a walk? On a run? Practice TKD? Or just read? Oh, the possibilities of leisure…

Later now. I fought the battle successfully and went on a two-hour walk with the purpose of finding a five-story pagoda my map tells me is somewhere around here. I found a sign pointing to it, but not the structure itself. Darn! Next time.

I just finished giving out presents to my family. The shirt didn’t fit my host dad at all (he’s a bigger guy than I’m used to shopping for)—oops. Hopefully I am not on a secret shitlist.

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Home--Tuesday, February 20

Here I am again, back home in Hongsan. It’s a bit surreal—it seems to me that I just left, but for them it must seem like I’ve been gone forever. And there are the minor adjustments to make to life back on the farm. Trying to communicate in another language again, for one. I was spoiled by all the English speakers I encountered on my journey and now I feel that I’ve forgotten most of the little Korean I did know! We had some random guests over this afternoon (two ladies and two men—I have no idea who they are) and I suspect they spent a good deal of time criticizing my language ability while I smiled awkwardly and slipped into a ball on the sofa. Jerks. And then there’s the whole being part of a family thing. I’ve spent six weeks accountable only to myself—it’ll be difficult to get back into the family groove. It’ll all come back, of course, but at the moment I am so entirely exhausted that it’s all a bit overwhelming. I actually got really homesick while on my trip (the first time, really) and I’m more than a little sad I returned to this home rather than that home. Well, I suppose it’s only a few more months until I see MT.

I realized today this was the first time I returned back to a place I visited. It’s a strange feeling to associate Korea with home, but that’s what I felt when I got off the plane. I was so happy to see Seoul—the modernity, the cleanliness, the order, the class…it really is a great city and I am newly inspired to spend more time there.

Bianca and I elected to spend the day there yesterday rather than heading straight home. She most likely regretted this decision, as she learned last night they rescheduled her winter camp to start today, but we did have a good time, even after spending so much time together already. We went to Gwanghwamoon, our usual downtown Seoul haunt, and left our stuff at our usual hostel (they kindly did not charge us). We spent the morning browsing through books—definitely one of my favorite activities of all time. Unfortunately, Kyobo does not have a huge English section and the books I wanted were not available, so I’ll have to go online. I’m really interested in studying some of the history and religion of the areas we visited. Perhaps it would have been more prudent to do so before I left, but now at least I’ll have a better idea of what the books are talking about. I’m especially interested in myths and folklore…I ended up buying a book of Korean folk tales instead and I am really excited to read that.

After the bookstore, I took Bianca on a restored concrete riverwalk I discovered in November while on a walk with a friend. It’s not picturesque in the nature sense, but it is a nice walk and a great spot for people watching. Even though it was a Monday, there were families everywhere, couples strolling, grandmothers, babies…everyone was there, taking in the sights. It’s an interactive walk of sorts—there is a long mural recreating a historic work of a king’s massive procession, along with inscriptions everywhere. My favorite part is a gallery set off to the side that houses a bunch of photographs of the area taken in the last century. It was a shock to see Korea of the 1960s…the riverside area looked almost exactly like that of the countries I just left! Dirty, naked children wallowed in the water. Haphazard shacks on stilts lined the muddy, meandering stream. These people were poor, and it showed. It brought to home once again how much Korea has progressed, and how rapidly. I find myself wondering why I don’t hear more about Korea being a model for development for countries such as Cambodia, Vietnam, etc. Sure, the circumstances are entirely different, but it seems that Korea’s story could be a valuable lesson for those countries struggling to build their economies now. I am inspired to learn more about what’s happened here in the past fifty years.

And then we went to a movie, The Science of Sleep. Earlier that morning, we’d found a theater that showed arthouse flicks, an exciting find, and it was only a couple of blocks away! The movie was really good, but a good portion of it was in French (which was subtitled in Korean, of course), so we couldn’t follow it that well. From the looks of it, we missed a lot of the jokes. I enjoyed it, but it was definitely one of those artsy movies that don’t really have an ending and those always bother me at first. I like things to wrap up neatly and this one definitely didn’t.

I finally headed home after the movie. It was a bit of a nightmare, what with my enormous pack with the broken waistband, putting all the monstrous weight on my shoulders, plus the extra two bags I’d accumulated. Basically, I was a walking study in affluence and I felt like a tool. A tired tool. It’s too bad getting home is so complicated—two different subways, two different buses, and then the long uphill trudge…I was exhausted by the time I got home! My host family was really surprised to see me, I think. I felt bad that I came home so late, but it really couldn’t have been helped. It’s a long journey from Seoul.

And now, today, the trip is catching up to me. I feel sick and exhausted and overwhelmed. My co-teacher called me and he wants me to come to school tomorrow already. NOT looking forward to it! Goodbye, vacation!